Tower Bridge seen from a boat on the River Thames

A personal field note · June 2023

Around the world in 21 days.

Our first global journey began with one meaningful goal: bring as many of Marlene’s dream destinations as possible into a single, carefully connected trip.

The idea

One wish list. One continuous route.

London, Paris, Athens, and the pyramids of Cairo were the anchors. From there, we linked the journey eastward—flying Qatar Airways Qsuites to Vietnam, continuing to Auckland, and returning to the United States through Sydney and Los Angeles.

It was ambitious, but it never felt like a collection of disconnected tickets. The real work was designing a route where every stop had a purpose and each transfer moved us naturally toward the next chapter.

The route

West to east, then home.

01Tampa
02London
03Paris
04Athens
05Cairo
06Vietnam
07Auckland
08Sydney
09Los Angeles
10Tampa

Sydney was an eight-hour layover on the journey home through Los Angeles to Tampa.

Chapter one

London—the first dream destination.

We left Tampa on Virgin Atlantic flight VS130 on June 6, 2023. London gave the journey an unmistakable opening: history, ceremony, river views, and landmarks Marlene had wanted to experience in person.

Airport departure board for Virgin Atlantic flight VS130 from Tampa to London Heathrow — **The journey begins**Virgin Atlantic VS130 from Tampa to London Heathrow, June 6, 2023.

Aerotel sign at London Heathrow Airport — **Arrival at Heathrow**On the ground in London and ready for the first chapter.

The stone walls and towers of the Tower of London beneath a clear sky — **The Tower of London**Centuries of history framed by a brilliant London sky.

A Yeoman Warder speaking to visitors inside the Tower of London — **Stories inside the walls**A Yeoman Warder brings the Tower’s history to life.

HMS Belfast on the River Thames with The Shard rising behind it — **Old and new London**HMS Belfast and The Shard share the same Thames skyline.

Elizabeth Tower, home of Big Ben, against a blue sky — **An unmistakable landmark**Elizabeth Tower—better known to many travelers by the name of its bell, Big Ben.

Golden Winged Victory sculpture atop the Victoria Memorial in London — **London in the details**Winged Victory catching the afternoon light atop the Victoria Memorial.

Between chapters

London to Paris by Eurostar.

Rather than fly, we boarded Eurostar in London and traveled beneath the English Channel through the Channel Tunnel. It was a smooth, memorable link between two of Marlene’s dream destinations—and we arrived in Paris ready for the next chapter.

Eurostar departures screen showing the 13:31 train from London to Paris boarding — **All aboard for Paris**The 13:31 Eurostar—our overland connection beneath the Channel.

Chapter two

Paris—icons, cafés, and a little humor.

Paris delivered the landmarks we had imagined, from the Arc de Triomphe and the Louvre to the Eiffel Tower rising behind us at Trocadéro. The moments between the monuments mattered just as much: café tables, French onion soup, and the everyday scenes that made the city feel alive.

Hiram and Marlene smiling at Trocadéro with the Eiffel Tower behind them — **A shared dream, in view**Hiram and Marlene at Trocadéro, with the Eiffel Tower behind them.

The Arc de Triomphe beneath a dramatic Paris sky — **The Arc de Triomphe**A monumental first look at one of Paris’s most recognizable landmarks.

The Luxor Obelisk at Place de la Concorde beneath cloudy skies — **Place de la Concorde**The Luxor Obelisk connects this Paris square to a much older story.

Pont Alexandre III in Paris beneath a sweeping cloudy sky — **Crossing Paris in style**The gilded sculptures of Pont Alexandre III under a wonderfully dramatic sky.

Ornate bronze sculpture crowning Pont Alexandre III in Paris — **Beauty in the details**An ornate sculpture crowning one of the city’s most celebrated bridges.

The golden dome of Les Invalides in Paris beneath cloudy skies — **Les Invalides**The gilded dome catches the light even beneath a changing Paris sky.

The richly decorated exterior of the Musée du Louvre in Paris — **The Louvre**Art and history begin before you ever step through the museum doors.

A bowl of French onion soup topped with toasted bread and melted cheese — **The classic café stop**French onion soup near the Eiffel Tower—one of those simple moments that made Paris feel complete.

Between chapters

Paris to Athens on 5,000 points.

Before leaving Paris, Marlene met the former chancellor of UNC Chapel Hill over breakfast. He had led the university while our son, Hiram, was a student there. What a small world.

Our Uber ride to Charles de Gaulle took about an hour. We arrived three hours early, only to find that the check-in counter opened two hours before departure. The lounge was located before security for our gate, so we missed our Bloody Marys. Even so, CDG left us with a good impression.

We flew Aegean Airlines business class to Athens. Like many short European business-class cabins, the seats were standard economy-style seats with the middle seat blocked by a table. There was no seatback screen, but the full service made the three-hour flight comfortable.

We built Athens into our Air Canada Aeroplan award as a 70-hour stop before continuing to Cairo. Adding the stop cost just 5,000 points, about $50 by our valuation.

Flight time: 3 hr 10 min
This leg: 1,322 miles
Total traveled: 5,644 miles
Still ahead: 19,257 miles

Aegean Airlines departure display for the flight from Paris to Athens — **Onward to Athens**At the gate in Paris for Aegean Airlines flight A3 611.

The blocked middle seat and table in Aegean Airlines European business class — **European business class**A blocked middle seat creates extra space, while full service happens around you.

Chapter three

Athens: ancient stone, rooftop views, and summer heat.

Flying over the Swiss Alps was majestic. Snowcapped peaks and crystal-blue lakes seemed close enough to touch. Athens was a little chaotic on arrival, but easy enough to navigate. Our yellow taxi took about an hour to reach Academias Hotel in the heart of the city.

Our Athens base

Academias Hotel

Floor-to-ceiling white marble made an immediate impression, but the location was the real advantage. We could walk to the Acropolis and many museums, then return for stunning views from the rooftop bar.

The illuminated Acropolis seen across the Athens rooftops at dusk — **Our rooftop view**The Acropolis glowing above Athens at the end of the day.

Marlene standing in front of the Academy of Athens — **Walking through the city**Marlene at the Academy of Athens, one of the landmarks close to our hotel.

Evzones ceremonial guards marching along an Athens street — **Ceremony in motion**Evzones moving in precise formation through the city.

Hiram standing on the Acropolis with the Erechtheion behind him — **At the Acropolis**Ancient architecture, a sweeping city view, and the heat of an Athens summer.

Visitors entering the Acropolis beneath bright summer sun — **Climbing into history**The approach was hot, rocky, and crowded, but every step revealed another remarkable view.

Large June crowds moving through the monumental entrance to the Acropolis — **June means crowds**Cruise passengers and visitors from around the world filled the Acropolis entrance.

Ancient carved columns and stone fragments on the Acropolis — **Fragments of the ancient city**Everywhere we looked, carved stone and weathered columns told another part of the story.

Lycabettus Hill rising above the white buildings of Athens — **Athens beyond the Acropolis**Lycabettus Hill rises above the dense white cityscape.

Philopappos Monument standing on a green hill above Athens — **A city of hills**The Philopappos Monument crowns another green rise above Athens.

A panoramic view across the neighborhoods of Athens from the Acropolis — **Athens from above**A broad view of the city, its red roofs, white buildings, and mountains beyond.

What we learned

Go one block farther.

Athens can be surprisingly economical when you step away from the busiest streets.

We bought snacks and wine at local markets, found coffee and breakfast for two at a neighborhood bakery for about $5, and enjoyed classic gyros, cold Alfa beers, and freshly grilled octopus. Narrow streets, orange trees heavy with fruit, and friendly people made those everyday moments as memorable as the monuments.

The hop-on, hop-off bus worked well for exploring. The lower level had air conditioning, while the open top became extremely hot. We waited for a shaded bus, carried water, and kept the sunscreen close.

Travel log four · Days 10–13

Athens to Cairo on EgyptAir.

Athens departures felt every bit as busy as arrivals, but our business-class tickets gave us expedited access through passport control and security. Unlike our experience in Paris, the lounge was after security. It was sleek, modern, uncrowded, and offered an excellent selection of food and drinks.

The flight was a short hop across the Mediterranean: just under two hours from Greece to Egypt. Cairo marked country number 76 for me, Marlene’s first visit to Africa, and her fifth continent.

Flight time: 1 hr 55 min
This leg: 687 miles
Total traveled: 6,331 miles
Still ahead: 18,570 miles

Hiram riding a camel with the pyramids of Giza rising behind him — **A dream destination**Country number 76 for Hiram and Marlene’s first visit to Africa.

Chapter four

Cairo: grand hospitality and ancient wonder.

Our arrival was a lesson in staying flexible. The visa process required cash in U.S. dollars or finding a bank counter that would accept a card. Once we reached baggage claim, taxi drivers and merchants immediately competed for our attention. Airport connectivity was limited, and we were told we needed a local SIM to get online. We bought one, then took a taxi into the city.

Our Cairo base

The St. Regis Cairo

Set along the Nile, the St. Regis felt opulent from the moment we arrived. Security included bomb-sniffing dogs at the entrance, a familiar precaution in parts of the Middle East. Our room was remarkable and came with around-the-clock butler service. The attention was so generous that, after a long travel day, we had to convince our butler that a shower, a meal, and a quiet drink were all we needed.

Hiram and Marlene standing among the enormous weathered stones of a pyramid at Giza — **Up close with history**The scale of the pyramid stones becomes astonishing when you stand beside them.

Hiram raising his arms on a camel at Giza as another camel leans into the camera — **A perfectly timed photobomb**One curious camel made sure this Giza memory would be impossible to forget.

Marlene playfully posing as if kissing the Great Sphinx of Giza — **Marlene meets the Sphinx**A playful moment at one of the world’s most recognizable ancient monuments.

Traditional sailboats moving along the Nile beneath the Cairo skyline — **Life along the Nile**Traditional sailboats crossed the sunlit river below our view in Cairo.

Hiram and Marlene smiling with their St. Regis Cairo butler — **St. Regis hospitality**A warm welcome and a photo with the butler who looked after us throughout our stay.

Once-in-a-lifetime Cairo

The right guide changed everything.

The hotel concierge arranged a private driver and licensed tour guide who made the history of Giza feel immediate and alive.

Our guide and driver were spectacular. The private tour included the pyramids and camel rides, and Marlene came away completely satisfied. I spent part of Father’s Day at the hotel spa, which made an extraordinary stop feel even more memorable.

The St. Regis was also our most expensive stop so far. The service and setting were exceptional, but this was unmistakably a splurge.

Travel log five · Days 13–15

Cairo to Saigon through Doha.

Leaving Cairo delivered the most stressful moment of the journey. I believed we could obtain our Vietnam entry visas on arrival, but we needed approved e-visas before the airline would let us check in. Because we had arrived early and still had an Egyptian SIM card, internet access, and WhatsApp, we were able to arrange urgent approval in about 15 minutes. It cost us $700, an expensive lesson that could have been avoided by confirming the entry requirements before departure.

Once we boarded, the rest of the journey was delightful. We traveled through Doha aboard Qatar Airways First Class and Qsuites, covering 5,010 miles across the two flights. The stop brought my country count to 78, but we still had more than half the planned journey ahead.

First flight: 2 hr 35 min
Second flight: 7 hr 55 min
This section: 5,010 miles
Total traveled: 11,341 miles

Onward in comfortA glimpse of the Qatar Airways First Class experience between Cairo and Doha.

Chapter five

Saigon: energy, reflection, and extraordinary food.

Immigration officers were waiting when we landed to help ensure we cleared customs and passport control. Ride-share service was not available to us at the time, but the taxi to our hotel cost only about $14. We quickly learned how affordable Vietnam could be.

Our Saigon base

Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon

Located in the center of District 1, the hotel placed us in the middle of a constant stream of scooters, cars, taxis, and city life. The property felt slightly dated, but its amenities and exemplary English-speaking staff more than made up for it. This was also the first stop where jet lag truly caught up with both of us.

Modern Saigon skyline, bridge, river, and traffic seen from the Renaissance Riverside Hotel — **Saigon on the move**River views, new towers, and streams of scooters framed the city from our hotel.

Tran Hung Dao monument surrounded by traffic near the Saigon River — **History amid the traffic**The Trần Hưng Đạo monument stands at the center of a city moving in every direction.

Saigon after darkHeadlights, scooters, and the illuminated waterfront kept the city alive well into the night.

Marlene sleeping beneath a blanket during the journey to Vietnam — **Jet lag finally arrived**After traveling steadily east, our bodies finally demanded a little extra rest.

A difficult but important visit

Seeing the war from another perspective.

The War Remnants Museum became one of the most emotional experiences of the entire journey.

After combat tours and years working in war zones, I was deeply affected by the artifacts and the stories of human suffering. I had to step outside several times to breathe. There are always different perspectives on war, and seeing this history through Vietnamese eyes brought me to tears for the lives changed on every side.

I left with a simple prayer: may God forgive us and bless us all.

Hiram standing outside the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City — **A visit that stayed with me**Outside the War Remnants Museum after an experience that became deeply personal.

War Remnants Museum exhibit about former American and Vietnamese combatants working toward reconciliation — **Reconciliation after war**An exhibit documenting former adversaries helping build dialogue and renewed relations.

Beyond the landmarks

A city of contrasts.

Saigon felt modern, vibrant, and surprisingly prosperous around District 1.

Luxury cars filled the streets near our hotel, with Lamborghini, Maserati, and Rolls-Royce showrooms nearby. Yet some of our favorite experiences were simple and inexpensive: authentic pho, bánh mì, cold beer, and coconut water. A meal for both of us could cost no more than $10.

The beef pho tasted completely different from the versions we knew in the United States. Even Marlene, who normally does not care for pho, enjoyed it. Conversations with other American travelers in the hotel lounge rounded out a short but memorable stay.

Travel log six · Days 17–20

Saigon to Auckland through Singapore.

Our first flight was a two-hour hop from Saigon to Singapore. Priority Pass gave us access to lounges in both airports, which made the seven-hour connection much easier. In Singapore we had time for showers, food, drinks, and a walk through the airport before the long overnight flight south.

The second leg took 9 hours and 35 minutes. By the time we reached Auckland, we had crossed the equator, traded tropical heat for winter, and covered another 9,151 miles of our route.

Saigon to Singapore: 2 hours
Singapore to Auckland: 9 hr 35 min
This section: 9,151 miles
Season change: Summer to winter

Entrance sign for the Butterfly Garden at Singapore Changi Airport — **A seven-hour pause in Singapore**Changi gave us room to refresh, explore, and reset before the overnight journey to New Zealand.

Chapter six

Auckland: winter light, Māori culture, and a meaningful return.

New Zealand marked another essential point on our circumnavigation. Auckland felt clean, green, multicultural, and easy to explore, with volcanic landscapes appearing throughout the city and harbor.

Our Auckland base

Hilton Auckland at Princes Wharf

The waterfront location made a strong first impression and put us close to central Auckland. The stay was comfortable, though my Diamond status did not feel as rewarding here as the recognition I usually receive with Marriott.

Rangitoto Island beneath dramatic clouds across Auckland Harbour — **Winter light over the harbor**Rangitoto and the surrounding water revealed the volcanic landscape that shapes Auckland.

Auckland Sky Tower viewed from the street below — **Looking up in Auckland**The Sky Tower remained a familiar landmark as we explored the center of the city.

Auckland War Memorial Museum beneath a blue sky — **A museum on Auckland’s volcanic rise**The landmark museum became the most meaningful stop of our day on the hop-on, hop-off route.

Memorial wall and record of the fallen inside Auckland War Memorial Museum — **Service remembered**The memorial galleries honor New Zealanders who left home to serve and never returned.

Hiram standing beside a large Māori carved figure inside Auckland Museum — **Learning through Māori art**The museum’s Māori galleries were a must-see and one of the cultural highlights of Auckland.

Hiram and Marlene raising glasses together in Auckland — **A toast near the finish line**After crossing another ocean, we paused to celebrate how far we had come together.

A personal connection

The haka brought old memories forward.

During Desert Thunder and Desert Fox in 1998, I served alongside members of New Zealand’s Special Air Service. Seeing the haka at the museum brought those years and those men immediately back to mind.

The museum helped connect New Zealand’s military history with the living traditions of Māori culture. It was powerful, respectful, and far more personal than I expected. We also met “Kiwi Steve,” one of the friendly people who made the country feel welcoming from the start.

Auckland itself was full of contrasts: English and Māori signs, people from many countries, international food courts, busy downtown streets, and volcanic peaks rising around a city of roughly 1.5 million people.

The final chapter

Sydney, Los Angeles, and the long way home.

New Zealand completed the southern crossing we needed for a true circumnavigation. We continued through Sydney and Los Angeles, then boarded the final flight to Tampa with 21 days of memories behind us.

The bar and terrace inside the Delta Sky Club at Los Angeles International Airport — **A final pause at LAX**The Delta Sky Club gave us a comfortable place to reset before the last flight home.

Marlene raising a drink inside the Delta Sky Club at LAX — **One last airport toast**Marlene raised a glass to an unforgettable journey and the final leg ahead.

Two smiling flight attendants seated together aboard the final flight home — **Two fantastic flight attendants**The warmth and humor of the crew helped make our final flight a memorable one.

In-flight map showing the final route from Los Angeles to Tampa — **Four miles from completing the circle**The route map showed Tampa just ahead as our around-the-world journey came to an end.

The circle is complete

Twenty-one days around the world.

What began as a plan to bring Marlene’s dream destinations together became one continuous journey across continents, cultures, seasons, and time zones. Points and miles helped make the route possible, but the people and shared moments are what made it unforgettable.